The 2008 Brunello di Montalcino is deep, textured and impeccably balanced. Dark cherries, plums, tobacco, crushed rocks and spices blossom in the glass. Here, too, the overall sense of harmony is utterly captivating. A gorgeous wine, the 2008 stands out for its exceptional polish. The style is a bit deeper, richer and more layered than the Pelagrilli, but at the same time remains deeply marked by the prevalence of fruit from the northern side of Montalcino. In 2008 Pacenti lost about a third...