Chocolate, tar, blackberries, violets, and dark fruits are found in the aromas and flavors of the uncivilized 2002 Champoux Vineyard (a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc). Though pure, ripe, and dominated by fruit, this super-concentrated effort is more reminiscent of a barrel sample than a bottled wine. Hugely powerful, it will require patience. Projected maturity: 2010-2020.

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