The estate’s 2003 Brunello di Montalcino is a lovely, pure effort redolent of dark plums, cherries, spices and leather. The tannins are well-integrated, and this medium to full-bodied wine has plenty of density and length to allow for another decade of pleasurable drinking. It is an outstanding effort from La Poderina and oenologist Lorenzo Landi. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2018.

Deep, bright red. Slightly roasted aromas of plum, dried flowers, smoke and truffle. Fat, lush and sweet, with some very ripe notes and modest lift to the flavors of plum and chocolate. Finishes with substantial tooth-dusting tannins and moderate length.

Very fresh aromas of crushed grape, cherry and citrus fruits. Full-bodied, with lots of fruit, firm tannins and a medium finish. Slightly hollow midpalate. Needs a little more bottle age to come together. Best after 2008. 3,200 cases made. –JS