The 2003 Brunello di Montalcino from Coldisole offers lovely density and weight on the palate in a fat, rich expression of ripe dark fruit, chocolate, scorched earth and toasted oak. It is a backward wine that ideally needs another year or so in bottle or a few hours of aeration to allow the tannins to soften a little. It saw three years of aging in French oak, which gives the wine its roundness but also adds a touch of dryness to the tannins, particularly on the close. Still, it is a delicious, modern-styled Brunello to enjoy now and over the next decade or so. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018.

Coldisole’s bright, ruby-colored Brunello delivers chewy fruit nuances backed by fresh aromas of cherry, blueberry and plum. The wine’s texture is grainy but firm and would pair well with roasted duck or quail. — M.L.